Honestly, guys, it's not hype when I say that the templates are far better than any other forum templating system I've used. A little PHP knowledge helps a lot when working with the templates in their current compiled state, but it will get easier. Also, you really only have to work with one file if you only want to make a YSE-like template modification, but the power is there to do a lot more.
I've changed almost everything except for the admin center, since lots of things are still being added/changed in that area. I've gotten rid of a lot of nested tables, font tags, etc. as well as tons of other little changes I made to fit the way I want my forum to look and run. The templating system makes it a lot easier to totally change the look of your forum without screwing up the way it works.